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Brief History of Wristwatches

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Brief History of Wristwatches

Portable clocks
The creations of the talented craftsmen of large clocks were soon taken up in a smaller format. The massive pocket clocks called "Nuremberg Eggs" were already famous in the sixteenth century.

Technical discoveries such as the tensioned steel spring as a source of energy have been used since the end of the 15th century, the beginning of the 16th century. These discoveries made it possible to manufacture smaller and more portable clocks.

The development of these small 16th-century oval clocks, the Nuremberg Eggs, using a known spring mechanism, was admittedly attributed to the Nuremberg clockmaker Peter Henlein (c. 1479-1542), but their manufacture could only really lead to mid-16th century, after his death. The invention of the pocket watch cannot therefore be really credited to Henlein.

At that time, Switzerland already had many very experienced watchmakers. In the villages of the Swiss Jura located between Geneva and Basel, a real hub of Swiss watchmaking developed and the town of La Chaux-de-Fonds became the center of the country's watch production.

On the high seas, we needed chronometers to guarantee the safety of navigation. It seems obvious that England, a great maritime power, actively encouraged the nascent watchmaking production and exercised a hegemony in this field. In the 16th century, the English ceded their supremacy in the production of small clocks to the Swiss. The country then had more watch factories than England. Germany was not left out either. In 1767, Margrave Charles Frederick of Baden set out to launch the jewelry and watchmaking industry in Pforzheim, Germany. He therefore founded a watch factory in the orphanage in Pforzheim. However, this city did not really succeed in establishing itself in the watchmaking market until the 20th century.

In the 19th century, the clockmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange (1815-1875) succeeded in building a watch industry in the town of Glashütte thanks to his skill in business and the targeted support of the poor townspeople.


Industrial production of transportable clocks
However, industrial production of portable clocks did not really begin until the 19th century. There was already a kind of wristwatch, but it was not produced in series. These early wristwatches served as jewelry and had only an ornamental role like bracelets, or they were simply hung from a chain on the wrist. The cases were round or oval and the mechanism was wound up using small keys.

The first real wristwatches appeared in 1880. The German navy ordered them from the Swiss manufacture Girard-Perregaux. At the same time, ladies' wristwatches had also developed in Switzerland and were very successful, especially among American women.

However, the wristwatch still fails to impose itself. At the time, we preferred to wear pocket watches hung on the wrist. Some manufacturers made their pocket watches in such a way that they could be worn directly on the wrist without needing to use a chain.

Various wristwatch patents were filed, designed only to be worn on the wrist, as a few far-sighted manufacturers, such as the Swiss brand Eterna in 1909, recognized the economic potential of this type of watch. Hans Wilsdorf was one of the forerunners. He had left Kulmbach and Bavaria to sell clocks in London. He then bet on wristwatches and, in 1908, he was already selling a considerable number under the name "Rolex". He first bought his movements in Switzerland, then moved to Geneva shortly after to found his own watch factory. He was the first to obtain chronometer certificates for his achievements, which is almost sensational for these little clocks.

Today, Wilsdorf is considered the rightful father of wristwatch chronometers. Many wristwatches already had in addition to the hands indicating the hours and minutes, a second hand for the seconds, either central or on a small dial, called today in most cases "small seconds".

The first wristwatch chronographs appeared around 1919. In the United States, attractive wristwatches were already being offered around 1913. In addition, during World War I, wristwatches were indispensable companions for soldiers at the front. The Swiss watch companies were the quickest to react to the sharp increase in demand at the end of the war.

First wristwatch 1917

The appearance of wristwatches changed in the 1920s.
If they still recalled at the beginning the pocket watch, new artistic creations, sometimes original were imagined rotating scales in the place of the hands, dials raised in the middle, indication of the phases of the Moon and various other details came to enrich the dial. The design included almost all of the elements that are still found today.

Over time, the movements became more and more complex. The watchmakers who were entrusted with wristwatches to clean, inspect or repair them were increasingly in demand. When, in the 1970s, the quartz watch took hold of the market, it sparked a great deal of controversy. Many watchmakers profited from the sale of this new generation of less complicated, less expensive and often more precise watches, while others preferred to continue to devote themselves exclusively to the mechanical wristwatch, carefully made by hand.

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