Budding is a common grafting method in fruit tree production. It can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn. Autumn is the most suitable, and the general survival rate can reach more than 90%.
1. Timely budding: grasp the time for budding in autumn. Budding is premature, the development of budding is not yet full, the rootstock is in the vigorous growth stage, the accumulation of nutrients in the body is less, the survival rate of budding is low, and freezing injury is easy to occur after budding in the same year; Bud grafting is too late, it is not easy to leave the skin, it is difficult to heal after grafting, and the survival rate is low. Budding in September is more suitable in the Yangtze River Basin and its south 4x8 flood tray.
2. Select the bud: select the full and full bud in the middle of the branch as the bud, and neither the bud at the upper end nor the hidden bud at the lower end should be used. The bud size should be appropriate. The bud is too small and the contact surface with the rootstock is small, so it is difficult to survive after grafting; If the bud is too large, it is easy to break when inserted into the cutting of rootstock, resulting in poor contact and low survival rate. When cutting bud pieces, pay attention to protecting bud pad or with a small amount of xylem. The connecting bud is generally cut into shield shape or ring block shape, and the shield connecting bud is about 1.5 ~ 2 cm long; The size of ring shaped bud grafting depends on the thickness of rootstock and bud grafting branch.
3. Master the budding method: when grafting, first deal with the rootstock, then cut the buds, and pick the buds at the same time, so as not to affect the survival due to the loss of water. Adopt "t" shaped budding, first cut a "t" shaped opening 3 ~ 5cm above the ground, and the depth is to see the xylem and peel off the bark; Then carefully peel off the rootstock bark with the tip of the knife, quickly insert the bud with shield shaped petiole, bind it tightly with a 1 cm wide plastic belt, and only expose the bud and petiole. The binding width should be 1 ~ 1.5 cm above and below the incision. After budding, soil 10 cm high. After 10 ~ 15 days, dig the soil and check the survival condition. If the bud is fresh and light green, and the petiole falls at the touch, it indicates that it has survived, otherwise it has not survived, and it should be reconnected on the back of the rootstock ebb flow tray.
4. Do a good job in post connection management: the seedlings budding in autumn shall be cut off 18 ~ 20 cm above the bud contact in spring the next year, and the binding materials shall be untied. Prune 3 ~ 4 times in summer to cut off the branches from rootstocks. When the sprouting branch grows to 8 ~ 10 cm long, it shall be bound to the live pile near the base; When it is 20 ~ 25cm long, bind it at the upper end again. Until the grafted wood is lignified and the live pile is cut off, it can continue to stay in the field to cultivate large seedlings.
The planting of honey peach depends on the conditions from the selection of seedlings, the requirements of garden construction, plastic pruning and other technical measures, and different management methods according to the quantity of cultivation.
Seedling selectionAccording to the soil, climate, management level and local market conditions, select excellent varieties with good yield and right production and marketing, and match early, medium and late maturing varieties mesh pollen tray.2.
Fertilization and topdressingWinter fertilizer and autumn fertilizer are advocated for base fertilizer, mainly organic fertilizer, accounting for 60% ~ 70% of the annual fertilization.
Generally, 2000kg stable manure or 150kg special fertilizer for fruit trees are applied per mu; The times, time and dosage of topdressing vary according to the variety, tree age, cultivation and management mode, growth and development period and external conditions.
Shaping and trimming(1) Tree shape and tree structure: the tree shape is the natural open center shape of three main branches.
Tree structure: the height of the adult tree is maintained at about 2.5 ~ 3M, the dry height is 30 ~ 40cm, there are three main branches, each accounting for 120 ° azimuth, each main branch is equipped with 1 ~ 2 sub main branches, and the opening angle is about 75 °.
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