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Pashmina Shawl

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aadiyogi
Pashmina Shawl

Introduction


Pashmina shawls, also known as cashmere shawls, are exquisite and luxurious garments that have a long and illustrious history. Derived from the fine under fleece of the Himalayan mountain goat called Chyangra (Capra Hircus), these shawls have been woven for centuries in the Kashmir region, which includes territories administered by India, Pakistan, and China. The name "Pashmina" originates from the word "Pashm," referring to the soft and warm wool produced by these majestic goats living at high altitudes in the Himalayas .


Historical Significance of Pashmina Shawls


The story of Pashmina shawls can be traced back to the ancient times when they were revered as a symbol of royalty and nobility. During the Mughal Empire, Pashmina shawls were presented as prestigious gifts, and they became a part of the khilat ceremony, where members of the court were honored with robes made of Pashmina wool. These luxurious shawls also became popular in Europe, especially in France, thanks to the enthusiastic use by Empress Joséphine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte . The shawls' association with the French elite elevated their status as a fashion icon.


Production Process of Pashmina Shawls


The production of Pashmina shawls is a labor-intensive and intricate process, involving the delicate handling of the precious Pashmina wool. Each winter, the goats naturally shed their undercoat, and the Changpa nomadic people living in the Ladakh region of India collect the fine wool through combing . The raw Pashmina is then transported to Kashmir, where skilled artisans carry out the rest of the production process.


In the old district of Srinagar, Kashmir, the combing, spinning, weaving, and finishing of Pashmina shawls are traditionally done by hand. It takes around 180 hours to create a single piece of these exceptional shawls . The craftsmanship involved in producing Pashmina shawls is a testament to the skill and dedication of the artisans who have inherited this art from their ancestors.


Terminology and Characteristics of Pashmina


The term "Pashmina" is sometimes misused or misunderstood, leading to confusion about its true nature. Pashmina is any wool under 19 microns in thickness, while true Pashmina is around 12-14 microns thick, making it six times finer than human hair . It is lighter and more delicate than regular cashmere wool, and when blended with silk, it creates a luxurious fabric that is highly prized in the western world.


The Importance of BIS Certification


In recent times, the popularity of Pashmina shawls has led to fraudulent marketing practices where products of inferior quality were falsely labeled as Pashmina, causing financial losses for traditional artisans and nomads who produce genuine Pashmina shawls . To protect the livelihoods of local craftsmen and preserve the integrity of this traditional craft, the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) has introduced a certification process to identify and label authentic Pashmina shawls .


Conclusion


The history and production of Pashmina shawls are deeply intertwined with the culture, heritage, and craftsmanship of the Kashmir region. These luxurious shawls have stood the test of time, evolving from symbols of royalty to coveted fashion accessories. The labor-intensive and meticulous production process, combined with the intrinsic beauty and warmth of Pashmina wool, ensures that these shawls remain timeless treasures cherished by people worldwide.



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